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Nikolay Petkov - Brief climbing biography

Nikolai Petkov
Date of birth: November 11, 1958, Smolyan, Bulgaria
Profession: electrical engineer, software specialist
Scientific degree: Doctor
Owner of the company Evergide EOOD
Creator of the climbing portal www.climbingguidebg.com
Climbing and mountaineering instructor
Chairman of the Alpine Club "Planinets"

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Photos in the gallery


MOST IMPORTANT CLIMBING EVENTS ABROAD
 
  • 1980  Caucasus, Adil-Su, Pic Germogenov (3993 m)
  • 1980  Caucasus, Elbrus (5642 m)
  • 1980  Caucasus, Shkhelda East (4320 m), (1100 m), new route
  • 1981  Crete, Costia Peak, new route[6]
  • 1981  Dolomites, Cima Piccolissima, „Cassin Route“ (250 – 300 м, VI+)
  • 1981  Dolomites, Cima Piccola, „Comici Route“ (250 – 300 м, VI)[6]
  • 1982  winter, High Tatras, Lomnický štít (2634 m), SE Face (700 m)[6]
  • 1982  Saxony, Elbe Sandstone Mountains, Falkenstein Massif (381 m
  • 1983  winter, Swiss Alps, Matterhorn (4478 m), North Face
  • 1983  winter, Caucasus, Elbrus (5642 m)
  • 1983, 1985, 2003  Pamir, Peak Lenin (7134 m
  • 1983, 1986 – Pamir, Peak Communism (7495 m)
  • 1984  9 май – Himalayas, Mount Everest (8848 m), West Ridge, South Col (descent), complete traverse
  • 1984  Dolomites, Cima Ovest (2973 m), „Cassin-Rati“ Route 
  • 1984  French Alps, Aiguille du Midi (3842 m) „Rebuffat Route“
  • 1984  French Alps, Petit Dru (3754 m) „American Direct“ in 10 hours
  • 1985, winter, 10 – 13 март – Swiss Alps, Eiger (3975 m), North Face
  • 1986  Pamir, Peak Communism (7495 m), South Face (2500 m) 
  • 1987  Caucasus, Elbrus (5642 m), „Volna Espania“ Route
  • 1987  Himalayas, Island peak or Imja Tse (6189 m)
  • 1987  Andes, Aconcagua (6961 m), first Bulgarian ascent
  • 1988, 6 – 8 януари – Andes, Aconcagua (6961 m), South Face (3000 m), „French Route“, Messner Variant, in 3 days
  • 1988  Alaska, Mount McKinley (6194 m), first Bulgarian ascent
  • 1989 – Himalayas, Dhaulagiri, Exploratory Expedition
  • 1991  Patagonian Andes, Fitz Roy (3405 m) „Direct Argentine“
  • 1991, 27 юни – Mount Kilimanjaro, Kibo crater, Uhuru Peak (5895 m)
  • 1991, 18 – 20 декември – Mount Kenya 5199 m, Batian, South Face, „Bulgarian Way“ – new route (7 UIAA)
  • 1992 – New Guinea, Puncak Jaya or Karstenz Pyramid (4884 m)
  • 1993 – French Alps, Grand Capucin (3838 m), „Bonnati-Ghigo“
  • 1993  French Alps, Petit Dru (3754 m), Bonatti Pillar
  • 1994  French Alps, Mont Blanc (4807 m), Central Pillar of Frêney
  • 1995  French Alps, Massif des Écrins, Aiguille Dibona (3130 m), 6c
  • 1996  Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán (6768 m)
  • 1996  Dolomites, Cima Grande (2999 m), „Comici-Dimai“ Route
  • 1996  Dolomites, Marmolada (3343 m) – „Tempi Moderni“ Route
  • 1997  25 септември – Himalayas, Dhaulagiri I (8167 m)
  • 1998  Karakoram, Trango Tower (6257 m), „Slovenian Route“
  • 1998  Tian Shan, Khan Tengri (6995 or 7010 m)
  • 2000  French Alps, Petit Jorassess (3650 m), „Anuk“ Route
  • 2000  Dolomites, Cima Grande (2999 m), „Comici-Dimai“ Route
  • 2001  Karakoram, Broad Peak (8047 m) – up to 7350 m
  • 2002  Dolomites, Chivetta (3220 m), NW face, „Filippe-Flamm“
  • 2002  Arizona, Grand Canyon, Comanche Ridge, new route
  • 2004  20 май – Himalayas, Mount Everest (8848 m), NE Ridge
  • 2006  8 юли – Himalayas, Nanga Parbat (8125 m), Diamir Face
  • 2007  October – Yosemite, El Capitan (2308 m), „Serenity Crack“
  • 2007  October – Yosemite, El Capitan (2308 m), „East Buttress“
  • 2007  October – Yosemite, El Capitan (2308 m), „The Nose“
  • 2007  October – Yosemite, Half Dome (2695 m), „Snake Dike“
  • 2008  Swiss Alps, Piz Badile (3308 m), North Face
  • 2009  Karakoram, Gasherbrum I (8068 m), first Bulgarian ascent
  • 2011  Karakoram, Khane valley, Exploratory Expedition
  • 2012  Karakoram, Khane valley, Levski Peak (5733 m), West Face, first ascent (650 m, M6, AI4, 6a)
  • 2012  Karakoram, Khane valley, Grey Tower (5434 m), East Face, first ascent (600 m, AI3 – to the col, 6b, mainly 5c)
  • 2015  Antarctica, Livingston Island, Tangra Mountains, Lyaskovets Peak 2015  8 януари – Antarctica, Livingston Island, Tangra Mountains, Great Needle Peak (1680 m), first ascent
  • 2016  23 януари – Antarctica, Livingston Island, Tangra Mountains, St. Boris Peak (1698 m), first ascent
  • 2019  Charakusa Valley, Pakistan, Nayser Brakk


CLIMBING EXPERIENCE AND NEW ROUTES IN BULGARIA

Beginning: 1973, first steps in climbing the rocks of Beledie Khan near Sofia, then Lakatnik, Kominite.

By 2021, Nikolay Petkov has made 77 premier alpine (multipich) routes and made 312 sports routes in Bulgaria.
Almost all more difficult routes in Rila, Pirin and Stara Planina.
Winter climbs on almost all routes on the northern walls of Malyovitsa and Vihren - some are the first winter climbs.

Vratsa central Wall
 
Orlovets 8 (6+,A1) 17-19.9.1979 Николай Петков, Иван Масларов, Любомир Илиев
The Guides’ Route 7+ (6,A1) 09.07.1980 Николай Петков, Любомир Илиев
Dragon 7- (6-,А0) 17.09.1982 Николай Петков, Иван Масларов, Илиян Троянски
Cerro Torre   14.10.1985 Николай Петков, Иван Масларов
Terminator 8 11.10.1993 Николай Петков, Павел Богданов
Sophi 9 (8, A2) 1999-2002 Николай Петков, София Фотева, Михаил Михайлов
Winter Breath 6+ 15.10.1994 Николай Петков, София Фотева
Idi mi, doydi mi 7- 1.10.1994 Николай Петков, София Фотева
Rockland 7a+ 03.05.2017 г. Николай Петков, Дойчин Боянов


 
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