Nikolai Petkov
Date of birth: November 11, 1958, Smolyan, Bulgaria
Profession: electrical engineer, software specialist
Scientific degree: Doctor
Owner of the company Evergide EOOD
Creator of the climbing portal www.climbingguidebg.com
Climbing and mountaineering instructor
Chairman of the Alpine Club "Planinets"
To Wikipedia page
Photos in the gallery
MOST IMPORTANT CLIMBING EVENTS ABROAD
CLIMBING EXPERIENCE AND NEW ROUTES IN BULGARIA
Beginning: 1973, first steps in climbing the rocks of Beledie Khan near Sofia, then Lakatnik, Kominite.
By 2021, Nikolay Petkov has made 77 premier alpine (multipich) routes and made 312 sports routes in Bulgaria.
Almost all more difficult routes in Rila, Pirin and Stara Planina.
Winter climbs on almost all routes on the northern walls of Malyovitsa and Vihren - some are the first winter climbs.
Vratsa central Wall
Date of birth: November 11, 1958, Smolyan, Bulgaria
Profession: electrical engineer, software specialist
Scientific degree: Doctor
Owner of the company Evergide EOOD
Creator of the climbing portal www.climbingguidebg.com
Climbing and mountaineering instructor
Chairman of the Alpine Club "Planinets"
To Wikipedia page
Photos in the gallery
MOST IMPORTANT CLIMBING EVENTS ABROAD
- 1980 Caucasus, Adil-Su, Pic Germogenov (3993 m)
- 1980 Caucasus, Elbrus (5642 m)
- 1980 Caucasus, Shkhelda East (4320 m), (1100 m), new route
- 1981 Crete, Costia Peak, new route[6]
- 1981 Dolomites, Cima Piccolissima, „Cassin Route“ (250 – 300 м, VI+)
- 1981 Dolomites, Cima Piccola, „Comici Route“ (250 – 300 м, VI)[6]
- 1982 winter, High Tatras, Lomnický štít (2634 m), SE Face (700 m)[6]
- 1982 Saxony, Elbe Sandstone Mountains, Falkenstein Massif (381 m
- 1983 winter, Swiss Alps, Matterhorn (4478 m), North Face
- 1983 winter, Caucasus, Elbrus (5642 m)
- 1983, 1985, 2003 Pamir, Peak Lenin (7134 m
- 1983, 1986 – Pamir, Peak Communism (7495 m)
- 1984 9 май – Himalayas, Mount Everest (8848 m), West Ridge, South Col (descent), complete traverse
- 1984 Dolomites, Cima Ovest (2973 m), „Cassin-Rati“ Route
- 1984 French Alps, Aiguille du Midi (3842 m) „Rebuffat Route“
- 1984 French Alps, Petit Dru (3754 m) „American Direct“ in 10 hours
- 1985, winter, 10 – 13 март – Swiss Alps, Eiger (3975 m), North Face
- 1986 Pamir, Peak Communism (7495 m), South Face (2500 m)
- 1987 Caucasus, Elbrus (5642 m), „Volna Espania“ Route
- 1987 Himalayas, Island peak or Imja Tse (6189 m)
- 1987 Andes, Aconcagua (6961 m), first Bulgarian ascent
- 1988, 6 – 8 януари – Andes, Aconcagua (6961 m), South Face (3000 m), „French Route“, Messner Variant, in 3 days
- 1988 Alaska, Mount McKinley (6194 m), first Bulgarian ascent
- 1989 – Himalayas, Dhaulagiri, Exploratory Expedition
- 1991 Patagonian Andes, Fitz Roy (3405 m) „Direct Argentine“
- 1991, 27 юни – Mount Kilimanjaro, Kibo crater, Uhuru Peak (5895 m)
- 1991, 18 – 20 декември – Mount Kenya 5199 m, Batian, South Face, „Bulgarian Way“ – new route (7 UIAA)
- 1992 – New Guinea, Puncak Jaya or Karstenz Pyramid (4884 m)
- 1993 – French Alps, Grand Capucin (3838 m), „Bonnati-Ghigo“
- 1993 French Alps, Petit Dru (3754 m), Bonatti Pillar
- 1994 French Alps, Mont Blanc (4807 m), Central Pillar of Frêney
- 1995 French Alps, Massif des Écrins, Aiguille Dibona (3130 m), 6c
- 1996 Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán (6768 m)
- 1996 Dolomites, Cima Grande (2999 m), „Comici-Dimai“ Route
- 1996 Dolomites, Marmolada (3343 m) – „Tempi Moderni“ Route
- 1997 25 септември – Himalayas, Dhaulagiri I (8167 m)
- 1998 Karakoram, Trango Tower (6257 m), „Slovenian Route“
- 1998 Tian Shan, Khan Tengri (6995 or 7010 m)
- 2000 French Alps, Petit Jorassess (3650 m), „Anuk“ Route
- 2000 Dolomites, Cima Grande (2999 m), „Comici-Dimai“ Route
- 2001 Karakoram, Broad Peak (8047 m) – up to 7350 m
- 2002 Dolomites, Chivetta (3220 m), NW face, „Filippe-Flamm“
- 2002 Arizona, Grand Canyon, Comanche Ridge, new route
- 2004 20 май – Himalayas, Mount Everest (8848 m), NE Ridge
- 2006 8 юли – Himalayas, Nanga Parbat (8125 m), Diamir Face
- 2007 October – Yosemite, El Capitan (2308 m), „Serenity Crack“
- 2007 October – Yosemite, El Capitan (2308 m), „East Buttress“
- 2007 October – Yosemite, El Capitan (2308 m), „The Nose“
- 2007 October – Yosemite, Half Dome (2695 m), „Snake Dike“
- 2008 Swiss Alps, Piz Badile (3308 m), North Face
- 2009 Karakoram, Gasherbrum I (8068 m), first Bulgarian ascent
- 2011 Karakoram, Khane valley, Exploratory Expedition
- 2012 Karakoram, Khane valley, Levski Peak (5733 m), West Face, first ascent (650 m, M6, AI4, 6a)
- 2012 Karakoram, Khane valley, Grey Tower (5434 m), East Face, first ascent (600 m, AI3 – to the col, 6b, mainly 5c)
- 2015 Antarctica, Livingston Island, Tangra Mountains, Lyaskovets Peak 2015 8 януари – Antarctica, Livingston Island, Tangra Mountains, Great Needle Peak (1680 m), first ascent
- 2016 23 януари – Antarctica, Livingston Island, Tangra Mountains, St. Boris Peak (1698 m), first ascent
- 2019 Charakusa Valley, Pakistan, Nayser Brakk
CLIMBING EXPERIENCE AND NEW ROUTES IN BULGARIA
Beginning: 1973, first steps in climbing the rocks of Beledie Khan near Sofia, then Lakatnik, Kominite.
By 2021, Nikolay Petkov has made 77 premier alpine (multipich) routes and made 312 sports routes in Bulgaria.
Almost all more difficult routes in Rila, Pirin and Stara Planina.
Winter climbs on almost all routes on the northern walls of Malyovitsa and Vihren - some are the first winter climbs.
Vratsa central Wall
| Orlovets | 8 (6+,A1) | 17-19.9.1979 | Николай Петков, Иван Масларов, Любомир Илиев |
| The Guides’ Route | 7+ (6,A1) | 09.07.1980 | Николай Петков, Любомир Илиев |
| Dragon | 7- (6-,А0) | 17.09.1982 | Николай Петков, Иван Масларов, Илиян Троянски |
| Cerro Torre | 14.10.1985 | Николай Петков, Иван Масларов | |
| Terminator | 8 | 11.10.1993 | Николай Петков, Павел Богданов |
| Sophi | 9 (8, A2) | 1999-2002 | Николай Петков, София Фотева, Михаил Михайлов |
| Winter Breath | 6+ | 15.10.1994 | Николай Петков, София Фотева |
| Idi mi, doydi mi | 7- | 1.10.1994 | Николай Петков, София Фотева |
| Rockland | 7a+ | 03.05.2017 г. | Николай Петков, Дойчин Боянов |