(Nikolay Petkov and Ivan Maslarov)
Kenia.doc - Text in Bulgarian, Topo of the new route
EMOTIONS ON THE EQUATOR - Part I I
After Kilimanjaro - a short return to Sofia, where we filled up our supplies, in December we landed on Balkan Airlines flight in Nairobi - the capital of Kenia.
Mount Kenia is a prominent mountaineering sight and we intended to make a "beautiful" climb, even to put up a new route! This time we secured a copy of the newest guide-book, thanks to two British mountaineers, our resent friends.
We chose the South Face of Batian 5199, the higher of the twins that crown Mount Kenia (the second highest in Africa). We put up our basecamp at 4450 m. altitude on a "persian carpet" of grass, about one hour walk from the mount toots.
With climbing shoes on and with pitons, metal nuts and magnesium bags hanging on us, on the 18-th of December we climbed the beginning part of the wall, along the overhanging sites between 4700 and 4900 m. We fixed 160 m. rope and at 6 p. m. returned to the basecamp, happy and optimistic about the coming day and a bit anxious, because it was lightly snowing every afternoon.
On the next day we got up at 3 a. m., started at 4 and at 6 began the climb of the first icy part of the route. At 8 we reached the end of the fixed ropes. Afterwards the hours rolled unnoticeably on, because the hardest part of the route followed immediately. After a rocky climb that really satisfied us, at 2 p. m. we stepped on the pointed summit. The descent followed entirely in windless mist, we were offered only a few sunrays. We abseiled down the same route. Hanging some 5 m. over a platform I understood that this wall was overhanging indeed.
At the base we greeted one another. This time we had fulfilled one of our dreams - to put up a new difficult route some where in the world!