Trango Nameless Tower 6239m

The Slovenian Route, 1998
(Nikolay Petkov, Milen Miltchev, Sofia Foteva, Mihail Mihailov, Sotir Stoitchev, Dimitar Kolechev and Dimitar Paounov-base camp manager)
Trango.doc - Text in Bulgarian

Trango Nameless Tower After a terrible two weeks ride from Sofia, we were in Islamabad. We lost 3-4 days in the Ministry of Tourism, but in the end we bought bus tickets to Skardu and then we rented two jeeps to Askole for us and the luggage.
    We needed 27 porters, each carries 25kg. On the third day of the tracking we ascended on Baltoro Glacier and turned to the left (Trango Glacier). We crossed it and built our base camp near a lake.
    There was too much snow in the couloire and falling stones in the day so we had to approach at mornings. Camp 1 was near the col, on the right of the couloire. Camp 2, more comfortable than 1, was on the "Shoulder" and we did a bivouac six pitches before the top.
    The team equipped parts the route with fixed ropes. Our neighbors were Spanish climbers - they wanted to do second ascent of "Eternal Flame" and they did it.
    On 5/7/ Nikolay, Milen and Sofia reached the top, next day - the other members - Mihail, D. Kolechev and Sotir.
Equipment for the wall: one tent, four sleeping bags,   fixed ropes, 100m  climbing rope (a good old 9mm Edelweiss Stratos), friends, nuts, karabiners, one "Camelot" (from the Spaniards), everyone has his own two jumars and sac.
    About the climbers:
The leader, Nikolay Petkov, was the most experienced. For the others this was the first contact with a BIG WALL and the ALTITUDE.
    In the "normal life" Milen, Sofia (mother of Peter, seven mounths old at that moment) and Nikolay are engineers, Mihail and Dimitar K. are students in the Sport Academy, Sotir is a "vertical worker".

Panoramic view from Trango Nameless Tower, Mihail Mihailov archive


Porters and Climbers                          Trango Glacier



Trango Great Tower, View From the Base Camp                                  Bouldering



Camp 1                         The First Pitches



Camp 2 - the "Shoulder" Camp           The Slovenian Route           Trango Galcier and  a Spanish Climber



Hauling Equipment                          After the Avalanche



The Bivouac - 6000m                       Trango Great, View From the "Slovenian Route"



The Overhanging Chimney              The 28th Pitch              Last Meters...



Trango's Snowhat                                 Down



   Trango Group, View From Dunge Glacier